This summer I have completed two crochet bags – Caramella and Granita. I’m very proud of myself for lining them by myself, using some cotton leftovers and my sewing machine. I have mostly used this and this tutorials on YouTube by KnitcroAddict. They have been extremely useful!
While videos are very helpful, I personally like to have a step by step written tutorial for complex projects like this. So I have created this one to guide me next time i need to line a bag.
For these two projects, I did not use interface first, I didn’t have any at home. Second, I wanted my bags to have a very soft shape. However, I can imagine adding interface for a bag with more defined shape.
Part 1 – cut the fabric
I have used three pieces – one for the main body, one for the regular pocket, and one for the zipped pocket
Lay the bag flat and measure the width and height.
Fold your fabric right sides together, with the fold at the bottom. Trace your bag size. Trace 1.5 cm allowance on the three sides (except the fold). Cut
Decide on the regular pocket size. Mine was the size of my mobile phone plus 2 cm. Trace the size of the pocket on a single layer of fabric. Add 2.5 cm seam allowance to all 4 sides. Cut.
Decide on the size of the zipped pocket. Mine was credit card size + 2cm for height and + 4 cm for width. Trace on the fold. Trace 2.5 cm seam allowance on three sides. Cut
Part 2 – iron
For regular pocket, cut off the angles, roll and iron the seam allowance twice. Use pins to hold in place. Fold in half vertically and iron (to be able to centre the pocket on the main body of the lining).
Iron the main body in half vertically, to be able to center the pockets. Iron the zipped pocket in half vertically, to be able to center on the main body of the lining.
Part 3 – simple pocket
For my next project I may try a double layered construction, as it looks neater.
Sew around to fix the hemming.
Sew on the label.
Place on the main lining piece: ensure it is centered by matching the ironed creases. Make sure the top edge of the pocket is at least 1.5 cm below the upper edge of the main piece ( the finished edge, before the seam allowance. Sew it on.
Part 4 – zipped pocket
at the top of the pocket, starting at the seam allowance, centering in the middle draw a rectangle of 1.5 cm in height and the length of your zip + 2cm, draw another line lengthwise in the middle, and mark 1 cm from each edge on this line.
Place the pocket on the opposite from the first pocket side of the lining, right sides facing. Match the center creases. The top edge of rectangle we drew at least 1cm below seam allowance line on the main lining.
Sew along the lines of the zip rectangle.
Cut through both fabrics long the center line inside the rectangle, stopping at the 1 cm mark on each side. Then cut towards the angles, but do not cut through the seams. I place pins to stop the scissors.
Using the cut, turn the pocket to the wrong side of the main lining. Iron so that everything lies flat.
Right side of the main lining facing, place the zip in the opening; use pins to ensure it stays in place.
Sew the bottom side of the zip, making sure the pocket fabric in the back lies flat. Stop.
Now fold the pocket up, so that the edge of the fabric aligns with the upper part of the zipper. Use pins to keep in place.
With the right side of the main lining, sew up the side of the zip, across the top and down the other side.
Turn to the wrong side of the lining. Seam the side seams of the pocket.
Part 5 – finishing the main lining
This method works if you will then sew the lining to the bag by hand.
Place the zip face down. Plase the lining right side down, top edge aligned with the top edge of the zip. Sew (slightly closer to the outside edge).
Turn the work so that the zip and the lining are right side up. Then flip the zip away from you, so that the zip is wrong side up, but the lining is still right side up. Fold up the lining, so that the bottom edge of the lining is aligned with the top edge of the zip. Sew (slightly closer to the outside edge).
Sew the side seams up until the zip. Do not sew through the zip.
On the side fold the fabric so that a triangle forms at the bottom, by aligning the side seam with the center of the lining. A triangle will form. Using a ruler held at 90° to the side seam, find a point where the width of the triangle equals the width of the base of the bag. Draw a line. Repeat on the other side. Sew along the lines.
Fit the lining into the bag, hand sew the bag to the zipper.
I am very curious to know my readers’ opinion on this tutorial. Is it clear enough? Do you need more details? Would you prefer a video?