Golden Sands cardigan (#leylas_goldensands) is my favourite knit this summer! It’s a perfect layering piece, and can be combined with so many looks! This knitted cardigan will flatter any body type. The construction is very easy, and is suitable for beginners. The stitch I’ve used for the main body is fun to make and looks great.
These are my project notes – they are not aimed at total beginners, but if you have some experience in knitting they should be sufficient for you to make your own cardigan. I hope with the time to complement this post with more explanations and details, to make the pattern more beginner friendly and size inclusive. This is my third project using the same idea (I haven’t posted about the first two here yet – #leylas_bubblecoat).
By the way, the cute bag is my Caramella crochet bag.
Tools and materials
Very simple. A set of circular 9 mm needles, darning needle for Italian bind off. I used 10 skeins of Flash It! yarn by Hobbii. Optionally, 6 stitch markers and some textile glue (especially, if you are using Flash it! yarn).
You can choose your own yarn and needles – swatch on several sizes to get the best drape!
Finished size and measurement
Size M/L, 70 cm wide at the back, 60 cm long. Read on, I’ll explain how to make it fit anyone, with any yarn (and even any stitch pattern).
Techniques and stitch patterns
You need to know how to cast on. I have used the classic bind off for the back and front, and Italian bind off for the ribbing.
Abbreviations
() – repeat the stitches in the brackets until the end
k – knit
p – purl
slwyif – slip purlwise with yarn in front
ssk – slip, slip, knit decrease
Seed stitch
For odd number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, p1) k1. Repeat this row.
For even number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, p1). Row 2 – (p1, k1). Repeat these two rows
1×1 ribbing
For odd number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, p1) k1. Row 2 – (p1, k1), p1. Repeat these two rows
For even number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, p1). Repeat this row.
Tubular stitch
For odd number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, slwyif1) k1. Row 2 – (slwyif1, k1), slwyif1. Repeat these two rows
For even number of stitches. Row 1 – (k1, slwyif1). Repeat this row.
Main mesh stitch
This stitch goes a little bit outside of commonly used knitting techniques, but is not complicated as such. It’s just more complicated to describe in words, so please refer to the video I have made.
Cast on a multiple of 3 stitches.
Row 1: k1, (ssk1, enter your left needle into the first stitch below your right needle and k2tog, yo), k2
Row 2: purl all stitches
Row 3: k2, (yo, ssk1, enter your left needle into the first stitch below your right needle and k2tog), k1
Row 4: purl all stitches.
Repeat these 4 rows.
Construction
Make a good large swatch to measure well your tension.
The basic measurements you will need are the length and the width for the back. These depend more on the hight of the person, rather their conventional clothing size. For length you can either measure your favourite garment, or measure yourself from the shoulder to about just below the crotch (60 cm [23 2/3 in] for me). For width, measure yourself with arms spread out to the sides, parallel to the floor, from the middle of one arm, across the chest to the middle of the second arm (60 cm [23 2/3 in] for me). I wanted an even more oversized fit, so mine is actually 70cm [27 1/2 in].
You can also measure the length from the shoulder to just above the breasts for the armhole (20cm/9in).
The image below illustrated the measurements to take?
To calculate the width of the front panel, subtract 20 cm/9in from the back width (possibly less or more for smaller or larger sizes), and divide the result in two. Once you have determined the dimensions, you can use the tension from the swatch to determine how many stitches to cast on for the bank and for the front panels. Round to the nearest multiple of 3.
Back
Cast on 96 sts (or the number you have calculated). Work 6 rows (2.5cm/1in) in seed stitch.
Work in the main stitch 18 pattern repeats (until you’ve reached the armholes). Place a stitch marker on each side of the row. Continue working 10 more pattern repeats (until you reach the total length). Bind off.
Front
Cast on 39 sts (or the number you have calculated). Work 6 rows (2.5cm/1in) in seed stitch.
Work in the main stitch 18 pattern repeats (until you’ve reached the armholes). Place a stitch marker on each side of the row. Continue working 10 more pattern repeats (until you reach the total length). Bind off.
Make another panel exactly like the 1st one.
Assembly and finishing
Seam the shoulder seams and pin the side seams in place. Try on to verify the armhole fit – adjut if necessary. Seam the side seams. I prefer seaming with mattress stitch, but you can use any method.
For the neckline edging, with right side facing up, pick up the stitches alongside the right front panel (3 sts for every 4 rows), 1 st from every stitch of the back, and 3 sts for every 4 rows from the left panel.
Work 7 rows in 1×1 ribbing, two more rows in tubular stitch, and bind off using Italian bind off.
For arm holes, pick up one stitch every second row, work in round using magic loop. Work 7 rows in 1×1 ribbing, two more rows in tubular stitch, and bind off using Italian bind off. I picked up less stitches for the armholes, as I prefer a tighter cuff.
Weave in the ends. Flash it! yarn which is a knitted cord has a tendency to unravel. I used textile glue to fix the open ends for better security.
That’s it! 3 rectangles, that essentially can be made in any yarn and stitch you fancy, on any needle size. A bit of sewing and ribbing, and you are done! Do not hesitate to comment for any questions.
