Green bikini – free crochet pattern

Update – I have published a more detailed post about making bikini tops.

This year I’m planning on making several crochet bikinis – from different materials and using different models. When the summer comes and hopefully we can go swimming, I’ll test them to see what works and what doesn’t. For me, apart from how it looks, there are two important qualities a good bikini possesses: it must stay in place well, and it must dry quickly.

My first attempt was made using 1 skein -100g- Alize Diva yarn (100% microfiber) and 2.5mm hook. I also used 0.5mm transparent elastic thread.

This is the first draft of the pattern, and it’s not very detailed. I am planning to make another piece and film several video tutorials to make it easier. Please let me know if you may be interested in testing. I will be using a thinner 100% cotton for the second one.

Top of the bikini

I wear cup B, usually, my measurements being borderline between A and B. We start working with one cup, then we make a second one, and without breaking the yarn, join them and finish off with a border.

So, to start a B-size cup, make a 5-cm long chain. In my case, 13+3 chains.

1st r. DC in the 4th ch from the hook and across until the last chain (=13 DC). In the next chain, dc3, ch, dc3. Then turn,and work in the back of the chains towards the beginning

Rows 2-9. Dc in each stitch until the turning point, working dc3 in the last one, ch1, then dc3 in the next one,and then straight across the other side. I used this chart. Your cup should have the correct shape to fit your breast. If it’s too pointy, you need to make more increases. If it’s too flat – less. Basically, the number of increases to give you the right shape depends on the ratio between the height and width of your dc stitches.

By the end of row nine, my cup is about 12.5cm across,and 12 cm tall.

Row 10. Dc, sk1, ch1, (dc2, sk2, ch 1), when you get to the last 3 stitches until the middle, do dc2, sk1, ch 1, dc2, ch 1, dc2, sk1, ch 1, dc2, then continue with (dc2, sk2, ch 1), and finish with dc2, ch1, dc.

Break off the yarn. Make the second cup exactly the same, but do not break the yarn. Turn by 90°, and work dc stitches across the bottom of your cup, alternating between 2 and 1 dc in each space. When done with one cup, chain 3, then work across the bottom of the other one. Make sure both cups are facing the same side up.

Work back one more row of dc stitches, then one row of dc, sk1, ch1, (dc2, sk2, ch 1), finish with dc2, ch1, dc.

Now we will work an edging around the whole bikini top and the ties at the same time. To start, work across the bottom of the bikini as follows: sc, ch 3, dc in the sc, then (sc in the next ch1-sp, ch 3, dc in the sc), turn 90°, make one shellin the side, then start the side tie: ch3, dc in the same sc, (ch3, dc in the top of the previous dc) x30 – or the length you need), then make another ch3-dc, and a sc in the top of the 3rd last dc, and continue working back alongslide the strap), whe you reach your main piece, continue working alongside the cup, make anothe strap at the top of the cup, work the sesond side of the first cup, the second cup, down the side, making the straps at the same time.

The final size of the cups is about 15x15cm.

Bind off and hide the ends

Bikini bottom

For the bottom, we will start with the top of the front, work down and then back up for the back part. Then we will add and edging and ties by working around the whole piece.

Start with 64 foundational dcs (I prefer that to chain, as the edge is more elastic and consistent with the rest of the fabric) – that’s about 26 cm. Work two more rows straight.

At the beginning of the next row, slip stich into the first 13 stitches. Then work in dcs across until the last 14 stitches, dc2tog and turn.

Work 8 more rows in dc, starting and finishing each row with dc2tog.

Work 4 more rows in dc, starting and finishing each row with dc3tog. (=12 sts). The piece now measures approximately 10.5 cm from top to bottom and 5cm across.

Work even for 10 rows ( 7cm)

Then work 26 rows in dc (about 20 cm), starting and finishing each row with dc2 = 64 sts.

The whole piece is therefore about 37.5cm long.

To finish off, work the same egding around as the top, creating 4 straps at the same time.

Finishing with elastic thread

To ensure a good fit, you need to use an elastic thread. I used a transparent one 0.5mm thick. You can also use 0.3-0.4mm.

Just cut a longish piece and thread it across the entire perimetre of the top and the bottom, excluding the ties. You need to go back and forth 4-6 times for several cm in the beginning and the end to fis it in place, as knots will not really work.


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  1. 1
    Taniya James

    In the beginning you mentioned “In the next chain, dc3, ch, dc3. Then turn,and work in the back of the chains towards the beginning”. What exactly do you mean when you say dc3, ch, dc3? I know that dc3 means double crochet three times in the same but I get a little confused after that. The photo I’ve provided shows what I did and I would love it if you gave me some advice.


    • 2

      Hi Taniya,

      thank you for getting in touch! dc3, ch, dc3 means that you need to make 3 double crochets in the same chain, make one chain, and then work three more double crochets in the same chain as the 3 before.

      Unfortunately, you picture is very small, so I am not sure if this is what you are doing.

      I have just actually published an new post on making crochet bikini tops with a video –, so this might be of help? If not, feel free to email me to with a larger picture of your work, so that I can better help you !

      • 3
        Taniya James

        Thank you so much for responding, I followed your instructions but in the photo I’ve provided (closer up) I can’t seem to get rid of these gaps that are here. The gaps are coming from the “ch1” after the “dc3”.


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